Wednesday, October 8, 2008
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Nate and Brian - October 2008
Zodiac on El Capitan
Links
About Zodiac
Why Zodiac?
The climbing is clean and exposed, following a series of large features through overhanging rock. Although shorter than the Nose, the technical climbing is much harder and there are no natural ledges on which to sleep.
History
Zodiac was once a test piece, with numerous pitches rated A4 and A5. Charlie Porter went through two attempts before he climbed the route solo over seven days in 1972.
In 2003, Alex and Thomas Huber made the first free ascent at 5.13d. Less than a year later, they set an El Cap speed recored by climbing the route in 1 hour, 51 minutes, 34 seconds.
What's in a Name?
Porter explains, "This was at the time of the Zodiac Killer, a serial killer in San Francisco. I would go up on the wall, come down, and find that he had killed again. His killings seemed to be timed with when I was on the climb." This disturbing coincidence led to the naming of the route. Also, "It was that time when everyone was running around talking about the stars."
Our Strategy
Zodiac is still considered a nailing route for most parties. We will attempt to climb it clean, i.e., without hammering pitons that damage the rock. This increases the technical difficulty as placements are less secure. We plan on spending 4 days and 3 nights on the wall (sleeping on a portaledge) and will take 8 gallons of water - 64 pounds alone!
The climbing is clean and exposed, following a series of large features through overhanging rock. Although shorter than the Nose, the technical climbing is much harder and there are no natural ledges on which to sleep.
History
Zodiac was once a test piece, with numerous pitches rated A4 and A5. Charlie Porter went through two attempts before he climbed the route solo over seven days in 1972.
In 2003, Alex and Thomas Huber made the first free ascent at 5.13d. Less than a year later, they set an El Cap speed recored by climbing the route in 1 hour, 51 minutes, 34 seconds.
What's in a Name?
Porter explains, "This was at the time of the Zodiac Killer, a serial killer in San Francisco. I would go up on the wall, come down, and find that he had killed again. His killings seemed to be timed with when I was on the climb." This disturbing coincidence led to the naming of the route. Also, "It was that time when everyone was running around talking about the stars."
Our Strategy
Zodiac is still considered a nailing route for most parties. We will attempt to climb it clean, i.e., without hammering pitons that damage the rock. This increases the technical difficulty as placements are less secure. We plan on spending 4 days and 3 nights on the wall (sleeping on a portaledge) and will take 8 gallons of water - 64 pounds alone!
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